SW Engines Blog

Don't Buy a New Car, Buy a Used Engine!

What’s the Best Diesel Truck Engine on the market?


So you want to drive a diesel truck? Nice choice. The diesel sensation, a trend now spreading from Europe to the U.S., is an innovative way to conserve fuel and decrease strains on the environment we live in. But since diesel engine technology still requires a fair amount of maintenance and expense compared to gas engines, you’ll want to look for the most reliable and cost effective diesel engine there is. So here’s a comparison of the Best Diesel Engines currently on the market, accounting for reliability, power, and fuel economy.

Power is always an attractive feature in trucks. As a side note, if you’d like to see the most powerful diesel—as in, the engine of engines, the most powerful diesel engine in the world—go here. But for the purpose of this article, we’re talking about diesel engines you’d be able to fit in your car.


A word on fuel economy

One of the major strengths of diesel is fuel economy, and if you’ve bought or are looking at buying a diesel car/truck, this is no doubt an important point to you. Like any truck driver, you’re looking for an engine that will guzzle as little fuel as possible while still providing all the brawn you need. Since a wide range of factors beyond the engine itself contribute to fuel economy, it’s difficult to pin down exactly how efficiently an engine uses fuel. Engine manufacturers recognize that fuel economy is important to buyers, and many of them construct innovative designs to improve this. We will make a point to specify where such innovations have been made.


Horsepower, Torque, and RPM

A few variables will come up here that you should at least have a rudimentary understanding of (of course, if you already understand these technicalities, just skip on ahead to the engines!). These are some of the specs you’ll see listed for any given engine, and they should be taken into consideration. They’re the main ones you want to look out for. In case you aren’t familiar with horsepower, torque, and RPM, we’ll give you a simple overview.

Horsepower is a unit of measurement. We won’t throw mathematics at you. Horsepower relates to how much energy an engine produces and is one of the several factors that determine how fast a car will go.

Torque relates to how much an engine can carry. If you’re not specifically looking for an engine that can hall heavy loads, this should be less of a deciding factor for you than horsepower. To understand a little more of the technicalities of torque, go here.

RPM (revolutions per minute) is the number of rotations the engine’s axis makes in a minute. Do I want a high RPM or a low RPM? Some engines are made to run with a high RPM and some aren’t. There’s one thing to keep in mind, though. The higher the RPM, the more work the engine is doing, the more strain is being put on it. This may affect both the lifespan and the fuel economy of the engine. The tradeoff is that a higher RPM usually generates more horsepower/torque.

When viewing engine specs, you’ll see both the horsepower and the torque listed with an RPM number beside them. For instance, one engine might have 350 horsepower at 2,000 RPM and another engine might have 350 horsepower at 1,000 RPM. This does not mean that additional calculation needs to be done to understand the horsepower. Both engines have 350 horsepower. The only difference is that one of them is rotating at twice the rate of the other. In a situation such as this, we’d recommend you go for the lower RPM engine.


Now that we’ve taken horsepower, torque, and RPM into consideration, here are some our picks for the most hardy and powerful engines on the market…


Pickup Truck Engines

In this article we’ll focus on both pickup truck engines and the larger commercial truck engines. Of course, commercial truck engines will have significantly more power than pickup truck engines. So in deciding what “the best” diesel engine is, there has to be a dichotomy made between regular truck engines and large/commercial truck engines, because in all likelihood you’re only looking for one or the other. We’ll start with regular pickup truck engines.


6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel (Aisin AS69RC trans.)

Cummins manufactures a number of engines, from pickup truck to largest of industrial engines. The 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel is the latest and most power installation of Cummins’ B-series engines. can be found in some of the Ram 2500 and 3500 series variations. The Cummins 6.7L is a very popular engine, and according to CumminsEngines.com, 80% of Ram pickup owner make the optional choice to get it. The engine was first introduced in 2007 and since then has had several improvements. The 2011 version of the 6.7L Turbo Diesel, according to CumminsDieselSpecs.com, produced a 10% increase in fuel economy, as reported by Ram Trucks (so go for a post-2011 version of this engine!!).

Cummins goes to lengths to boast of their engine’s durability, even creating an online “Cummins Turbo Diesel High Mileage Club” for those who’ve driven over 100,000 miles with their Turbo engine.


6.7L Cummins Turbo


385 at 2,800 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

865 at 1,700 RPM


Inline 6-cylinder


The Cummins Turbo has a relatively hardy torque, although other engines may rise above it in terms of horsepower. See more of the 6.7L’s specs here.


The Duramax® 6.6L Turbo-Diesel LML (aka Duramax 6600)

According to DuramaxDieselSpecs.com, the 6.6L Turbo-Diesel LML was GM’s response to Ford’s Power Stroke engine (see next engine). This is the engine you’ll find in the 2015 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD as well as the GMC Sierra 3500 HD. It includes a diesel exhaust break, which helps with maintaining a desired speed on steep slopes. The 6.6L Turbo-Diesel uses diesel exhaust fuel injection to reduce emission levels significantly. Developed to be used vigorously and to last at least 200,000 miles, it’s considered the cleanliest and most powerful Duramax engine.


Duramax Turbo-Diesel[1]


397 at 3,000 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

765 at 1,600 RPM




Go for a post-2010 model of this engine, as the 2011 model produced an 11% increase in fuel mileage. This and specs on other 2011 design/operation improvements found here.


The 6.7L Power Stroke™ V8 Turbo Diesel

Built with a lightweight compacted graphite iron engine block and aluminum cylinder heads to reduce weight, the 6.7L Power Stroke is powerful and fuel efficient engine. Piston-cooling jets improve engine longevity and it has “instant start” glow plugs for cold weather ignition starts. It has up to five injection events per cylinder per cycle in order to reduce noise and emissions. It also has integrated exhaust gas recirculation, “Selective Catalytic Reduction,” and a “Diesel Particulate Filter” which serve to control and reduce emissions. This and other specs here.

1The Power Stroke is primarily used in Ford’s line of SUPER DUTY trucks. The SUPER DUTY line has provided a number of reliable heavy duty trucks over the years, including the F-450 and F-550, which are two of SWEngine’s more popular truck engines. The 2015 SUPER DUTY is availed with either a gas engine or a 6.7L Power Stroke™ Turbo Diesel engine. Here’s the specifications:


Power Stroke™


440 at 2,800 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

860 at 1,600 RPM




This according to Ford.com. Check out the full specs page here.


Commercial Engines

If you’re looking for the right diesel engine to put into a commercial vehicle, consider some of the engines listed below. These engines are used in some of largest industrial trucking vehicles.


The Paccar MX13

The first engine to use compacted graphite iron in both the cylinder block and head, the Paccar MX13 designed for a becoming mixture of smoothness and durability. It has filters, a thermostat, and an oil cooler attached directly to the engine and dependable electrical system with fully encapsulated wires. This engine can be found in some Peterbilt trucks. According to Peterbilt.com, the MX13 has a B10 design life of one million miles. Its built in PACCAR Electronic Control Module precisely manages the engine’s fuel consumption for optimum fuel economy. The engine’s common rail system maintains injection pressures of 2,500 bar, helping to minimize fuel consumption, emission, and noise levels. A rear-mounted gear train and a floating oil pan also make the engine run quieter. The MX13 also boasts a construction of light-weight parts for a better weight-to-brawn ratio.


Paccar MX13[2]


380-500 at ~1,500 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

1,450-1,850 at 1,000 RPM


Inline 6-cylinder



The Cummins ISX15

Talk about an engine! With an advertised horsepower of between 400 and 600, the Cummins ISX15 truly is a powerful and beautiful machine. It can boast this substantial horsepower without sacrificing fuel economy. It’s great for large/commercial trucks and is found in a lot of International Trucks and Freightliners. The ISX15 has a variable geometry turbocharger, which “enhances response and control with electric actuation for infinite adjustment, providing exact boost at any rpm” (this and more specs here).

It has a B50 life of over one million miles. Its “XPI Fuel System” precisely controls fuel consumption at high pressures which, along with its electronic engine controls, enables multiple injection events per cycle. Cummins strove to construct simple, smooth, and effective operation into this engine.

Cummins ISX15


400-600 at 1800 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

1450-1850 at 1,100-1,200 RPM


Inline 6-cylinder


The Detroit DD16®

Designed with a sharp eye for engine performance, the Detroit DD16 is used for large/commercial trucks like those made by Freightliner, and it aptly fits the description “heavy duty.” Detroit advertises it as their largest and toughest engine. It employs BlueTec® SCR emissions technology and the Amplified Common Rail System (ACRS™) to monitor and help lower emissions, noise, vibrations and fuel consumption. The integrated three-level Jacobs® brake adds braking versatility (for quieter braking, shorter stops, and downhill control) and minimal engine wear.

The DD16 really shines through with its torque. If you want an engine that can pull monumental loads, this may be the one for you. It has plenty of pulling power and can work smoothly and efficiently instead of grunting and coughing under a heavy load like lower-torque engines. The DD16 is more than a workhorse; it’s a behemoth!


Detroit DD16[3]


475-600 at 1,800 RPM

Torque (lb.-ft.)

1,850-2050 at 1,100 RPM


Inline 6-cylinder


As you can see, this beast has a significant amount of both horsepower and torque. Detroit also manufactures a few lower-caliber engines such as the DD15 and the DD13. To compare the differences between these various Detroit engines, and to see more specs on the DD16, go here.


Picking the best diesel engine for your truck

diesel-mdThese have been some of the key players in pickup truck and commercial truck engines. The engines listed have been tested and improved over time and define the upper field in industry standards. Choosing a particular diesel engine, like any car buying decision, should be done with specific consideration of your needs. If you need more grit and hauling power, look for something with more torque. If you want speed and engine power, look search for the best horsepower. If fuel-to-mileage is a big thing for you, look for reputable engines that promise great fuel economy through design/constructions. Naturally, some balance of all of the above is to be desired.


Making the purchase

Picking an engine is a hassle in of itself, but finding a good place to buy it is an entirely new challenge. Look around both locally and online, and as usual, we highly recommend you buy used. If you have an idea of what engine you want, hop over to www.swengines.com/heavy-duty-trucks.php and fill out a super-fast, easy quote. We have a truly vast inventory, so it’s likely that the engine’s in stock at a great price. :)

Updated: February 20, 2015 @ 6:11 pm

Should I buy a Used Engine or a New Car?


So you need a new ride, or at least a better one. Maybe your old Chevy or Honda finally kicked the bucket or maybe it’s starting to cough, wheeze, and make other unsettling sounds. An unreliable vehicle can be both dangerous and a hassle. But is it really time to send your car to the scrap yard and fork out the dough for a brand new automobile? Automobile issues can often be narrowed down to a select few components, which means that the rest of the car you’re thinking of junking is still in a fine working condition. This might be the case with your car, and you might just save yourself several thousand dollars if you read on…



Of course, the first step you should take is determining what exactly is wrong with your car. If you’ve already done this, skip down to, “So my engine’s blown.”

So what’s going on? Are there irregular humming or buzzing sounds? Issues starting up the ignition? Automobiles are have very large, complicated systems inside them, so there’s an indefinite amount of things that could go wrong.

Lying puddles, oddly protruding pieces, and large cracks are clear tellers of engine problems. If you’ve hardly ever popped a hood open before, you may want to get a feel for what your engine should look like. It may be helpful to find an example of your car’s engine in a healthy state for reference. Try searching for pictures of your make/model’s engine.

certified-mechanicIf you’re unable to identify the problem, don’t worry. Whether or not you can tell what’s gone wrong, your next step is to visit a mechanic. The best option for most people—and maybe even for those of us who have a little experience in getting under the hood—is to have a professional technician inspect the engine and tell them (a) everything that’s wrong and (b) everything that needs to be replaced. For the purposes of this article we’ll assume that you’ve verified that your car’s problem is indeed an engine one. The choice then comes down to this: replace the engine or buy a new vehicle.


So my engine’s blown. Now what?

Several factors play into deciding whether replacing your engine is more to your advantage than just buying a new car. There are a few costs to balance, but the first step is to compare the price tags of the products themselves. The chart below compares the price of buying a new car last year (as estimated by Edmunds.com) to the price you can expect to pay for a used engine of the same make/model. This should give you a good feel for what the average initial price difference is going to be.


2014 Make/Model

New car

Used engine[1]

Honda Accord



Ford Focus



Mazda 3



Toyota Tocoma



Toyota Avalon




As you can see, a used engine is going to cost you a fraction what a new car will cost you. In most of the makes listed above, a used engine is close to one tenth the price. This is pretty good cost difference. If your make/model/year is not one those listed above, hop over to www.swengines.com. Punch your car’s details into the “Find Your Used Engine” box on the left and get a quick quote to see what your specific engine runs for used.


Installation price

The next cost to factor in is how much it’ll cost you to get the thing working inside your vehicle. This is trickier to determine. Every car is different. The cost of such job will be relative to your car’s engine and its problems. Also, different garages charge different rates for varying levels of quality, and it’s not a simple job either. Both putting in your newly bought engine and ripping out your old engine are complicated tasks. You might consider putting it in yourself, but only if you have previous experience in car mechanics.

A safe bet is to add an estimated $2000 for engine installation. As long as you don’t have any major additional problems in your car, and you don’t go to a supper uppity repair shop, you may end up hitting below this, but you never know. At least you’ll be prepared. And if it ends up costing you less, all the more money for you!


Buying an engine online

The internet has opened up a world of new buying options. But are used engines the sort of things that should be bought over the web? Since you’re going to put this product into a two-ton machine that you’ll sit in moving 65mph, you want be sure that it’s safe and reliable. You also don’t want to spend plus three grand only to have it conk out on you a couple of years down the road.

Of course, how could we write a blog post on buying used engines without bragging (just a little bit)? Seriously though, Swengines.com can boast the largest, most comprehensive database of used engines in the country, and because of that we’re able to offer both the best pricing and the best quality in used engines.

Wherever you end up looking to buy an engine, you want to be sure of the expertise of those you’re buying from. Our staff has over 30+ years of hard earned experience. Don’t believe us? Call to talk an expert about at 866-319-1058.


How long will the engine last?

Hopefully you now have a pretty good feel for the cost difference between a replacing your engine and buying a new car. Chances are that even if your installation price shoots through the roof, you’ll still walk out with much more money in your pocket than if you’d bought a new vehicle. Buying a used engine is just an all-around economical way to keep yourself on the road. But how long will it keep you on the road? Part of the value in buying a new car is the assurance that it’ll keep running for years to come. But an engine’s an engine. Just like the cost, the reliability of an engine is relative to the specific engine you’re dealing with. Its longevity depends on how well it’s been treated and maintained. Some say that an engine from a car owner in a rural area is better than that of a car owner in a city, because the city-dweller would have been stopping and going in traffic more often, putting more stress on the engine. But the chances of you being able determine the origins of a used engine you’re buying from a reseller are fairly slim. If you buy from a reliable source, you can expect your used engine to continue to operate for several years.  There is one thing in particular you want to look out for, though…



If the service you’re looking to buy a used engine from doesn’t show you the engine’s mileage, that’s a major red flag. Of course, the lower the mileage a used engine has, the longer you can expect it to last. So how many miles are we talking here? How many is too many? Here are some general rules:

  • You want to shoot for under 100k miles.
  • 120k miles is the upper limit.
  • If you can get below 80k then you’re in a good region.

Having said that, we really, really recommend that you try to get down to at least 80k. Paying a little more for a used engine that will last much longer is usually worth it.



Calculating mileage for your specific engine

We stated before that longevity is relative to the specific engine build and how the specific engine was treated. That can make calculating costs difficult and buying an engine feel especially risky, but here’s a case in which that relativity can help you. How many miles did your current engine last? How many years have you been driving it? For instance, if you’ve had your car for 10 years and there’s 150k miles on it at the time of its demise that probably means you drive about 15,000 miles a year. You may expect the used engine you’re buying to die around the same number of miles, since it’s the same engine (this isn’t factoring in differences in driving habits; if you start treating your engine better, it’ll start treating you better and you can expect it to last longer). So in this case, if you buy a used engine with 100k miles on it, you can expect it to last another 50k miles, or almost 4 years. Of course, if you buy a used engine closer to 50k in mileage, your prospects will be much better: 100k miles left and almost 7 years.

Don’t just take the hypothetical example into you consideration. Mark down your dead engine’s mileage and make these simple calculations to determine how long the engine you’re looking at buying will last.


Should I purchase a warranty?

A lot of used engine sellers offer a warranty on your used engine for an additional charge. You may be wondering whether this is this worth getting or if it’s just a way for companies to get another couple hundred out of you. Unfortunately, since it’s an expensive piece of used equipment that you’re buying, getting a warranty is usually a good idea.

Now some companies offer different types of warranties. SWEngines recognizes the importance of ensuring quality and includes a 180-day standard warranty free of additional charge in every purchase. There’s also what’s called a Parts and Labor Warranty. These may be provided at an extra cost for durations of two or three years (three years, in SWEngine’s case). This just means that for whatever the duration of the warranty, all parts covered and any costs of having them removed, repaired, or reinstalled are also covered. This will be available for a higher price than the standard warranty. So it is worth paying more for a more comprehensive warranty? This is up to your discretion. If you feel confident with the company you’re buying from and trust that a working engine will be shipped to you, then you’ll probably be alright with a standard warranty. Otherwise, add the price of a Parts and Labor Warranty into your costs. It’ll probably still be more cost effective than buying a new car.


An additional cost?

There’s one more thing to consider: the core charge. Don’t worry though—this isn’t as scary as it sounds! The core charge is essentially the value of your old, dead engine. In some case, if you send this in you can get an amount deducted from the price of the used engine you’re buying (not much, but enough to put a little more stuffing back in your wallet). That way the company can rebuild an engine by recycling the “core” parts of your old one. The trick is that some companies use this as an additional charge to you if you don’t send your old engine in. Of course, this is all a matter of perspective, but it’s unfair to you if you weren’t anticipating this charge. Before purchasing a used engine, you should check and see what the core charge policies of the company you’re buying from are. SWEngines has no core charges in most cases. Core charges may apply to some engine types, but SWEngines makes an effort to keep customers aware of this in cases to which core charges may apply.


The verdict

Look at the price tag on the new car you’re thinking of buying. Now add up all of the costs of replacing your engine as discussed above. You just need to decide if the price difference is great enough to make it worth your time. Many people make the mistake of giving up on their car once the engine runs out, but the engine is just one component of a large machine. Often it’s a much better choice to swap out your old engine and keep your vehicle running healthy for many more years. Even after installation and additional charges are factored into the price of a used engine, it remains a cost-effective way to stay on the road for anyone who’s wise enough to put a little thought into it.

[1] All prices and estimates on new cars and used engines were obtained 2/11/2015 from Edmunds.com and SWEngines.com and are subject to change.


Updated: February 14, 2015 @ 11:57 am

What’s the difference between long block and short block engines?

         shortandlongblockIf you’ve ever talked to a technician or browsed the internet for an engine, you may have heard the terms “long block” and “short block” used. So what’s the difference between “long” and “short” in this context? These terms are mostly used to describe what’s actually included in the engine package you’re purchasing. There are lots of complicated, mechanic-lingo heavy explanations of the differences between them, but what you’re most likely concerned with is understanding differences in forthright, layman’s terms. Allow us to present the relevant facts to you.


Short Block


The short block is the meat and potatoes of engine packages. It’s typically comprised of just three things:

  • The block
  • Crank
  • Pistons

As you can see from the picture, the short block will resemble something like the skeleton of a car engine. Contrary to what the name might suggest, the short block is not any smaller in size than the long block. In fact, they’re the exact same block. The words “short” and “long” refer only to the package deal. A short block engine package is a “shorter” deal; it includes a short list of components and usually a shorter warranty. There may be slight variation in what different companies offer as their “short block engine,” but the term generally connotes an engine in its “bare bones” form, without all of the extra (but necessary) components.


Long Block


The long block engine is not quite your complete package. An electric control unit, the transmission, and possibly some additional necessary wiring will not be included in either a short block or a long block. You may or may not need new versions of these parts, so make sure you understand what actually needs replacement (if you think you may need to replace these parts too, see the “turn-key engine” section below).

So what’s included in the long block? The long block engine package provides everything that’s in the short block engine and more. Here’s what you may expect to find in a long block package:

  • The block
  • Crank
  • Pistons
  • Camshaft
  • Cylinder heads
  • Valve-train
  • Oil pan (sometimes)
  • Valve covers (sometimes)

Keep in mind, this list represents what you’ll find in your typical long block package. Always be sure to check the specs of the engine you’re looking at before you go ahead and make the purchase (unanticipated costs can be a pain in the wallet!). Generally, the long block is considered the complete internal engine. But external parts such as the oil pan, valve covers, exhaust and intake manifolds, harmonic balancer, timing cover and flywheel may have to be purchase separately. This, of course, is something to keep in mind while calculating your costs.


What’s the cost difference going to be?

There’s really no good answer to this question. The only given is that shorter will be cheaper and longer will be more expensive. Any engine seller or manufacturer will tell you that price difference between short block and long block engines is entirely relative to make, model, and year. A good idea is to write the details of your car’s engine and call a two or three local or online engine services asking for quotes on both the short block and the long block engine for your car.


Which should I buy?

While short block engines are cheaper than long block, they’ll also require the purchase of additional parts and more installation time (the additional parts you buy would come preinstalled on a long block engine). If you already have some of the smaller parts included in a long block engine, you may be better off buying a short block and gathering the extra little bits and pieces. You’ll have to weigh the costs. If you don’t already have any minor parts that will be compatible with the engine you’re looking at buying, the long block will be your most cost-effective option. But if you can identify that the only really defective piece in your engine as the block itself and/or the crank and pistons, then the short block package is by far your best and cheapest route.



Another thing to consider in choosing between a short block engine and a long block engine is warranty. As a trend, the entire package warranty of a long block engine tends to be longer and better than the short block’s warranty. But it gets more complicated than that. A conventional warranty should cover all parts included in your purchase (again: always, always, always check the specs!). So in the case of a long block engine purchase, you shouldn’t have to worry about the functionality of the individual parts. But if you buy a short block engine and have the other parts installed separately, those parts obviously won’t be covered in your warranty. What also will not be covered is their installation (the parts themselves may be completely fine but they could be improperly fitted to your engine), which brings us to our next point.


If I buy a short block engine, should I install the additional parts myself?

The answer for anyone who does not have prior experience in car mechanics is a clear, resounding NO! The last thing you want to do to your wallet and your poor vehicle is cause something to malfunction, either right off the bat or down the road (literally!), simply because you didn’t have the experience to put it in right. This is neither wise nor safe.

Hiring a professional mechanic will almost always be the safest route, but if you’re a DIY, garage junkie type of person and you’ve put car parts together before, this might be something you could consider. Here’s a couple “musts” for you:


No. 1: get your hands on a repair manual for your specific car

Of course, we realize that the DIY type often coincides with the anti-directions/instruction manual mentality, and we get that. We respect you. But this is something you really, really, really don’t want to mess up, even just a little! You may still have a repair manual from when you bought the car or you may need to order it off the internet (you can usually find them online; sometimes you can just download them). Just get your hands one can keep it close if you even want to think about installing this yourself!

No. 2: know when to put on the brakes

Figuratively, that is. If you’ve started the installation process yourself and find yourself lost, or have an uneasy feeling about how you put it together, don’t be afraid to stop where you are and get professional help. Hiring someone always beats having your vehicle suddenly break down and then hiring someone.


Addition factors

Maybe you’re still not sure whether short block or long block is the way to go. There are a couple other things that could factor into your decision making, so if you’re not entirely sure by now, consider a few of these…


No. 1: check the carburetor

In case you aren’t familiar with it, the carburetor basically blends air and fuel in your engine. This will typically be a circular-ish device (there’ll be a wide cylinder built somewhere into it). It may look something what’s pictured below.


The reason you may want to check the carburetor is that if you’re block needs replacing, it’s not entirely unlikely that your carburetor has gone south as well. You’re carburetor could be completely fine, but it’ll be worthwhile to just check on, if you can locate it.

If you do find that your carburetor needs replacement, see the section below about “turn-key engines.” Neither the carburetor nor any of the parts listed below will be included in a short block or long block engine.

No. 2: throttle shafts


It’s possible that your throttle shafts (see pic) may need replacement. This is a fairly inexpensive part, but it’s one more thing that adds to your costs. Locate your throttle position sensor and check to see the shafts and everything else are functioning as they should.


No. 3: if you have an overhead valve engine…

In an overhead valve (OHV) engine, the valves are put over cylinder head. Because of the structure of this type of engine, more frequent maintained is often required. It’s possible that the head may need to be worked on or other miscellaneous parts replaced.

No. 4: miscellaneous defects

Pop open that hood and do a little reconnaissance. See any rusting, worn linkages, or cracked shrouding? If your engine’s been around for a while, you may have some issues that don’t signify the end of the world, but could stand to be fixed. If you see enough of these (and they bother you enough) you may want to get those parts replaced at the same time you replace your block.

This may have opened up a whole new can of worms for you. If you find that any of the above parts need replacement, you may need to consider a different engine package entirely, which brings us to…


The “turn-key” or “crate” engine


A turn-key engine (also called a “crate engine”) is one that’s all set up and ready for you to slap it into your vehicle, turn the key, and start driving. This may be worth buying if you’re also in need of any parts (like those listed above) that are not part of the actual engine block. A typical turn-key engine package should include the following:

  • The block
  • Crank
  • Pistons
  • Connecting rods
  • Camshaft
  • Cylinder heads
  • Pushrods
  • Gasket
  • Valve-train
  • Oil pan
  • Valve covers
  • Rocker arms
  • Intake manifold
  • Throttle pedal
  • Ignition coil packs
  • Spark plugs
  • Oxygen sensors
  • Airflow sensors
  • A lot of other odds and ends…

It’s a long list, but the gist is that the “turn-key” is the complete package. Just as the long block = the short block + more, the turn-key = the long block + everything else. The issue is that you probably don’t need to replace everything. So how does one decide whether it’s more cost-effective to buy it all or to buy just the parts needed?


To buy or not to buy a turn-key engine

Determining whether to buy a turn-key engine or a block engine comes down to the same sort of calculations as determining whether to buy a long or short block. Calculate the price difference between a turn-key and a long block package, and add to the cost of the long block package all of the following factors: costs of additional engine parts (carburetor, shafts, etc.), cost of the separate installation of these parts, and the value (by personal estimation) of the comprehensive warranty you won’t get on the long block + the extra parts. Also, since the turn-key engine comes as a complete unit—ready to pop in and drive—installation is going to be much cheaper/less time-consuming (whether you’re doing it yourself or hiring a mechanic) than the block engine. Make sure to include this in your calculation.


Final exhortations

Hopefully by now you have a feel for what package best suits your needs. If not, you can always find a mechanic service locally or online who can tell you more. As you begin to consider adding more to your engine package your wallet will begin to ache, so determining the most cost-effective route is crucial. Everyone’s situation is a little bit different. The key is to determine what your vehicle really needs done, calculate your costs accordingly, and pick the package that, for you, will have the minimum amount of unnecessary replacements and will also require the minimum amount of additional replacements. That’ll be your best deal.

Of course, we here at SWEngines are all about great deals. We hope this article has been a help to you and we also would like to help you in finding the engine you need. Head over to www.swengines.com and fill out the quick, easy form to get a quote on your engine. With a free 3 Year Parts and Labor Warranty, you can’t go wrong. Buying an engine can be complicated. We’re here to make it easier on you!

Updated: February 6, 2015 @ 5:18 pm

Used Dodge Engines: Faster Than Dinosaurs?

One of the questions of this past century that no one has been able to figure out has eluded us all… Until now. Now for the question of all questions, are Used Dodge Engines faster than Dinosaurs? The answer is no, they are not faster than Dinosaurs. Car engines cannot move without the actual car itself. So let me ask another question. Can a Dodge beat a Dinosaur in a quarter mile race?

Which Dinosaur Can We Race?

Now to answer this question, there has to be some variables set in place. The most important being, what kind of Dinosaur are we trying to race? Surely we cannot race a Pterodactyl because it would make zero sense to race the Dinosaur version of a Plane. How about the extremely mainstream Velociraptor? Thanks to Jurassic Park, everyone thinks this is the fastest Dinosaur to ever roam the Earth. I am sad to say they are not. What about the Ornithomimosauria? You don’t know what Dinosaur that is? Don’t worry most people don’t know about it or know how to pronounce it. Just know this Dinosaur is one of the fastest Dinosaurs. It also happens to resemble the modern day Ostrich.

So which Dinosaur are we going to race against? We are going to go with the king himself, the Tyrannosaurus Rex. The reason being for choosing a Tyrannosaurus Rex is because they weren’t the slowest Dinosaur and they were one of the biggest Dinosaurs. Besides, a race between a Dodge and an Ornithomimosauria just did not have the same ring to it.

Which Dodge Can We Race?

For this epic hypothetical race, we could not choose a Dodge Challenger Hellcat. Why would we choose a car we know will destroy a T-Rex in a race? Instead of choosing an obvious pick, we went with a car that will make you think, “This is actually a pretty good race.” What better car to go with than one of the slowest cars of 2013, the Dodge Dart Limited. The Dodge Dart is a very good car, however, it is very slow. It takes 9.9 seconds just to go from 0-60 mph. To put this into retrospect, it takes a Bugatti Veyron Super Sport to go 0-60 mph in 2.4 seconds.


Dodge Dart vs. T-Rex

This is actually a great matchup between Car and Dinosaur because the Dart and the T-Rex both weigh a lot. They are both incredibly slow in comparison to other cars and other Dinosaurs. The only difference between the two is the Dodge Dart is a normal sized sedan and the T-Rex is the size of some Chipotle’s. At about 40 feet long and 20 feet tall, the T-Rex is a mammoth competitor against the puny Dodge Dart.

The 2013 Dodge Dart Limited is 3600 pounds which is one of the reasons why the car is as slow as it is. A T-Rex on the other hand, has been known to be around 18,000 pounds. Literally the T-Rex weight is equivalent to 5 Dodge Darts.

The top speed of the 2013 Dodge Dart Limited is 120 mph. The car is limited by the governor, of course. The top speed of a T-Rex is 18 mph. What can we say, he didn’t catch his predators by the being the fastest of the bunch.

A Tyrannosaurus Rex’s stride, depending on how tall and long the Dinosaur is can get upwards to 30-40 feet. If the T-Rex’s stride happened to be 40 feet, it would take only 132 strides just to get to one mile. Could you imagine going to the gym, hopping on a treadmill, and jog for only 132 strides? The average male’s stride is only 7 feet 9 inches!

The Winner Is…

So, to answer the question everyone has been dying to know. Can one of the slowest cars of 2013, the Dodge Dart, beat a Tyrannosaurus Rex in a quarter mile race? By a Land Slide. Even though the T-Rex has incredible strides, it simply came up short to a machine. Calculating the T-Rex stride and the top speed of the beast, it would take the T-Rex around 50 seconds to finish a quarter mile race. The 2013 Dodge Dart Limited, as slow as it is, looks like a Bugatti in comparison to the T-Rex. Bringing in a time of 16.0 seconds in a quarter mile, the Dodge Dart is clearly the winner.

What have we learned from all of this? Dinosaurs, Tyrannosaurus Rex in particular, would hate to chase us down in the cars of today. It is safe to say a Dinosaur wouldn’t catch up to you while you drive unless you run into traffic.

Updated: December 15, 2014 @ 4:06 pm

Why are Toyota Engines So Good

toyota-engineReliability? When talking about cars, Toyota engines always come to mind. Not only just Toyota engines, but all Toyota vehicles in general. Whenever you turn to one of your friends and ask, “Hey man, what should my next car be? I am trying to save money but I need a car that gets good gas mileage.” And their reply usually will sound like this: “Oh dude, you need to get like anything Toyota. Maybe a Camry or a Corolla?”

Maybe not all conversations will sound exactly like the hypothetical one we just read. The only part of the hypothetical conversation people could probably relate to is someone referring them to buy a Toyota. Why would someone say this though? You could probably walk up to the next 5 people you see at Starbucks right now and ask them this question, “I want to buy a new car but want to save money on gas.” What do you think their answer will be? You probably won’t hear someone say something ridiculous like a lifted Ford F350 with tires the size of the Moon. At least one of those people will recommend you to buy a Toyota. It is so engraved in our heads how cost-efficient and reliable a Toyota is because of their track record of being a solid vehicle all the way around. And it’s all Toyotas not just some Toyotas. You never really hear, “Man this Toyota just costs so much in gas!” The reason why you never really hear that is because no one ever will ever say such a thing. Except for a Toyota Tundra. For the sake of this blog, a Toyota Tundra does not count.

Reliable Toyota Engines
Writing for SWEngines, you start to become curious about which engines people get more quotes on or even which engines are sold the most. With no surprise, Toyota Engines are not the most quoted or most sold engines. Toyota recently became the first automobile manufacturer to produce more than 10 million vehicles a year. If that is not impressive enough, they have produced over 200 million vehicles throughout the history of their company. If this incredible statistic does not display the reliability of Toyota Engines, what will?

Buying Used Toyota Engines
Buying a used Toyota engine as a way to replace your current vehicle’s engine is more prominent now-a-days than it ever has been. Thanks to incredible manufacturers like Toyota, their long lasting and reliable parts make it easier on people having to make the decision between buying a new car or save money buying a used engine a lot simpler. Buying a used engine through SWEngines is extremely simple. If you have never been to our site, there is an Instant Quote Form at the top left of the page. All you have to do is fill in your vehicles year, make, model, engine, and email address!

Why are Toyota Engines so good? There really is a lot to say about Toyota as a brand. Let us just appreciate their incredible product of which is making millions of people around the world more than satisfied.

Updated: December 15, 2014 @ 10:51 am

Used Honda Engines

Honda Motor Company is the largest Japanese manufacturer of automobiles, motorcycles, as well as lawn mowers, trimmer, generators and other power equipment. Honda thinks of themselves as a “Motor” manufacturer more so than an automobile manufacturer. Honda isn’t the largest manufacturer of automobiles in Asia. In fact, they are the 8th largest automobile manufacturer in the World and the 4th largest Asian automobile manufacturer behind Toyota, Hyundai Motor Group, and Nissan respectively. Even though Honda itself is the 8th largest automobile manufacturer in the world, the satisfaction and reliability people around the world have found with Honda engines cannot be measured.

Types of Honda Engines Available

The most popular displacement of a used Honda engine are the 4-cylinder models. Most of the “international” models such as the Civic, Accord, and the CR-V run on 4-cylinder engines. Other “international” models such as the Legend run on a 5-cylinder engine. Some Accords also run on 5-cylinder engines. These Accords tend to be newer and more powerful ones.

Honda is best known for their innovative VTEC engines they developed themselves. VTEC stands for Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control which is simply a system in which to improve the efficiency of four-stroke combustion engines. The difference between VTEC and VVT (Variable Valve Timing) is the VTEC engines ability to change the camshaft profile or valve lift. The VTEC uses two camshaft profiles to be able to select between profiles.

Used Honda Engines Models

SWEngines provides most models of Honda used engines from the years 1990-2014. Most Honda engines from select models can be found from the list below.

  • Accord
  • Civic
  • Crosstour
  • CR-V
  • CR-Z
  • Del Sol
  • Element
  • Fit
  • Insight
  • Odyssey
  • Passport
  • Pilot
  • Prelude
  • Ridgeline
  • S2000

Buying Used Honda Engines

Buying Honda engines has gotten a lot easier of the years. Now-a-days, it is less hassle to find a used engine for low prices and low mileage rather than find a used car to replace your broken down vehicle. SWEngines offers an Online Instant Quote Tool in which offers instant pricing, availability and mileage of Honda engines from the list above.

If you are ever unsure about which engine is under the hood of your Honda, feel free to talk to one of our ASE Certified Representatives at 866-319-1058. They will be able to assist you in finding the engine that will fit in your Honda.

Updated: December 15, 2014 @ 11:06 am

Used Chevy Engines for Sale

chevy-used-engineUsed Chevrolet Engines have been one of the most demanded makes at SWEngines for over three decades now. Chevrolet’s domestic background give them a couple of traits they are known best for; Reliability and Power. Chevrolet Engines have been running under our hoods now for over a century and they are still putting out a reliable product year in and year out. From the Colorado to the Silverado, the Camaro to the Corvette, Chevy has been stamped by America as their go to American manufactured make.

Reliable Chevy Used Engines

SWEngines can attribute success to the Chevy brand for the ability to manufacture engines that are not only powerful, but reliable as well. Since we are in the “Eco-friendly” era, Chevy vehicles like the Volt are getting more popular by the year for their extremely reliable and efficient engines. That’s right, Chevrolet, as of late is more than just 6.0L Silverado and Corvette engines. In fact, Chevrolet shows on their website how efficient the Volt is by displaying electric miles driven, total miles driven, and the total gallons of fuel saved in total for all Chevrolet Volts. http://www.chevrolet.com/volt-electric-car.html#

Types of Chevrolet Used Engines

Chevrolet offers many models in which SWEngines stocks nearly all the 1990 through 2014 engines. Some, but not all of the Chevrolet models we carry are:

  • Avalanche
  • Aveo
  • Camaro
  • Caprice
  • Cavalier
  • Cobalt
  • Colorado
  • Corvette
  • Cruze
  • Equinox
  • Impala
  • Lumina
  • Malibu
  • Monte Carlo
  • S10 Pickup
  • Silverado
  • Suburban
  • Tahoe
  • Trailblazer
  • Traverse
  • Uplander
  • Venture
  • Volt

Why choose a Used Chevy Engine From SWEngines?

Choosing to buy a used Chevy Engine is a worthwhile investment due to the reliability and cost efficiency of Chevy Engines. At SWEngines, our mantra is we sell used engines for low prices with the lowest mileage we can find. By filling out an instant quote form, you too could look into our Chevy Engines. When filling out the instant quote form, it will display the price and mileage of your particular engine.

Speaking of reliability, we offer a Free 3 Year Parts & Labor Warranty on all of our Chevrolet used engines for sale. SWEngines makes it easier for you to buy a Chevy Used Engine.

Updated: December 3, 2014 @ 10:14 am

Ford Used Engines

ford-engineFord Motor Company is one of the most well-known companies around the world for the past century along with past and present divisions Mercury and Lincoln. Founded by Henry Ford in 1903, he founded the Ford Motor Company on the building blocks of performance and innovation. Performance and innovation go hand and hand with the engines that have evolved out of Ford over the past century. Muscle car legend the Mustang. The most popular truck of the past 30 years, the F150! And one of the most popular Hybrids of the past decade, the Ford Focus, are all one of if not the most innovative cars of their class.

Ford Used Engines Performance

SWEngines is a lot like Ford in the way both companies are bridging the gap between efficiency and performance. Each year, Ford finds ways to decrease their prices on the newest vehicles each year while trying to improve the gas efficiency and performance. SWEngines, in comparison to their competitors, offers used Ford engines for low prices and low mileage. Free shipping is also offered on all used Ford engines within the 48 continental states of the USA*. SWEngines benefits from Ford’s innovation from the high demand to acquire Ford engines.

Used Ford Engines Models


SWEngines has almost every engine for Ford models between the years 1990-2014. Some of the present and past Ford models include

  • Aerostar
  • Bronco
  • Crown Victoria
  • Edge
  • Escape
  • Escort
  • Expedition
  • Explorer
  • F150
  • F250
  • F350
  • Fiesta
  • Flex
  • Focus
  • Ford GT
  • Fusion
  • Mustang
  • Probe
  • Ranger
  • Taurus
  • Tempo
  • Thunderbird
  • Windstar

Buying Used Ford Engines

Buying and locating a Ford Used Engine is easier than buying the vehicle itself! All one has do to acquire the price, mileage and availability of an engine is to simply fill out our Online Instant Quote Form prominently located on the home page. Fill out your vehicles year, make, model, engine type, and provide an email address. You will be sent to our Instant Quote page and receive a quote email within minutes.

All Used Ford engines are offered our industry leading 3 Year Parts & Labor Warranty. For more information about our Warranty, Terms and Conditions, please check out our dedicated SWEngines Warranty Page.

Updated: December 12, 2014 @ 5:00 pm

Used Engines for Sale – SWEngines

Used Engines For SaleSWEngines is the Nation’s Leading Retailer of Used Engines. We have a vast inventory of Used Engines ranging from Domestic makes such as Ford, Dodge, Chevrolet, Cadillac, to just name a few. We also offer imported makes from Honda, Nissan, Acura, Toyota, just to name a few. Our inventory of most makes between the years 1990 and 2014 is the most up to date inventory where you get current pricing as well as low mileage for your particular make and model.

How to find a Used Engine

Finding a used engine is easy.  Simply fill out our Online Instant Quote Form located prominently on the page to get your pricing, mileage and availability for your quoted engine. Simply fill out the year, make, model of your vehicle and email. If you are unsure about what exactly your “8th Digit” of your VIN is or what engine you have entirely, feel free to talk to one of our ASE Certified Representatives at 866-319-1958. Our ASE Certified Representatives are more than helpful in getting you the right engine the first time!


Used Engine Warranty

When you invest your hard earned money into one of our used engines, we want you to feel safe with your purchase and the trust you are putting in us. SWEngines ensures customer confidence when buying or even considering buying one of our engines is our Industry Leading 3 Year Parts & Labor Warranty. This 3 Year Parts & Labor Warranty is offered on ALL used engines for sale at SWEngines, free.

Shipping Used Engines

One of our Frequently Asked Questions on our social media outlets is, how long does our engine take to ship out? And how much does it cost to ship to where you live?

To answer the first question, depending on volume and weather, our engines can take up to 7-14 business days to be shipped to you. In some cases, people will even get their engines before the 7 business days. And believe it or not, shipping is FREE to the 48 continental states of the USA. There are separate shipping fees to Alaska and Hawaii as well as $75 residential fee to your home or select boroughs within the New York City area.

Now that we have told you all about what SWEngines has to offer, it is time for you to visit our site and fill out an instant quote form!

We hope to get you back on the road driving your vehicle in no time!

Updated: December 9, 2014 @ 10:16 am

Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat 6.2L Hemi Engine

The Challenger SRT’s 6.2L Engine
The Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat is one of the most anticipated American Muscle Cars as of late. The main reason is Dodge’s huge claim of deeming the 2015 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat the most powerful American Muscle Car of all time! The Hellcat is powered by a 6.2L engine claiming a monumental 707 horsepower.

One of the most ingenious features the 6.2L Hemi Engine offers is the so-called “Air Catcher” cool-air intake. While this may not be a new idea for engines with a lot of horsepower, the way Dodge implements the “Air Catcher” is as stealthy as it is innovative. The driver-side’s inner head lamp is simply a port with LED’s around the opening in the head lamp to give the illusion of being a light. The purpose of the “Air Catcher” is to be able to create a cool-air intake opening for the 8.0L airbox behind the driver-side head lamp. (more…)

Updated: November 18, 2014 @ 12:41 pm
SW Engines Blog © 2014 Frontier Theme